Start with the fork
Most guides sort appliances by type — fridges here, laundry there. That's the wrong first cut, because a working fridge and a dead fridge are almost completely different problems.
One has buyers, reuse routes and a retailer willing to collect it. The other has a scrap value, a recovery requirement, and nobody who wants it in the condition it's in.
So establish which you have first, and be honest about it — "it works, it just doesn't cool properly" is a dead fridge with a story attached, and treating it as a working one wastes a fortnight.
If it works: it has value
Genuinely, and more than most owners assume. There is a real market for used appliances, and a working machine is one of the few household items that people will actively come and collect.
Who wants it: households furnishing a rental or a first place, landlords fitting out units, and — in this city particularly — the constant turnover of military families arriving and departing, which keeps a steady demand for functional second-hand appliances. The PCS cycle.
What kills that value: not being able to demonstrate it works. If it's already disconnected and sitting in a garage, a buyer has to take your word for it, and most won't. Sell or give it away before you pull it out, not after.
The best free route, if you're replacing it
Ask the retailer about haul-away at the point of purchase. It's frequently the single best option on this page and it's constantly missed, because it has to be arranged at the moment you're thinking about the new machine rather than the old one.
When it's available the old unit leaves as the new one arrives — no second trip, no gap where a dead fridge is standing in your kitchen waiting for a plan.
Two things to confirm when you ask: whether they'll take it from the room or only from the door, and whether they handle disconnection or expect the appliance to be ready to move. It usually can't be added after the order, so ask before you pay.
If it doesn't work: it's still metal
The part people miss, and the reason a dead appliance is rarely worth paying to remove until you've asked around.
A washer, dryer, range or dishwasher is largely steel — a single clean material with a genuine buyer at the end of the chain. Scrap collectors take them, and they take them for free, because the metal is worth their trip.
The catch is refrigerant. Anything that cools is a different case, covered in the next section, and not every collector will handle those.
The practical move: if you have several dead appliances, or an appliance plus other metal, that's a call worth making before you book anyone. How the free routes actually work · appliance recycling.
The refrigerant rule
This governs a specific group and it's the reason those units are treated differently everywhere.
Refrigerators, freezers, window and portable air conditioners, and dehumidifiers contain refrigerant, and it has to be recovered by someone qualified before the unit can be processed. That's a genuine step performed by people with the right certification and equipment.
It is not something to attempt yourself, and we're not going to describe how it's done. What it means practically is that these units can't simply be left out or dropped at a general facility, and that the requirement is part of what they cost to remove.
Which units: refrigerator $164, large side-by-side or French door $183, mini fridge $115, chest freezer $146, upright freezer $149, window AC $87 small or $109 large, portable AC $85, dehumidifier $77. Refrigerator removal.
The connections that need a licensed person
Two categories where the removal isn't the first step.
Gas appliances. A gas range or any gas-fed unit should be disconnected by a licensed plumber or technician before it's moved. We don't disconnect gas lines and won't — it needs the right licence, the right tools and someone who can verify the line is properly capped afterwards.
Water heaters. Same principle. A tank water heater is plumbed in and full of water, and both the disconnection and the draining belong to a professional. Once it's disconnected and drained, removal is straightforward — tank $131, tankless $90.
Everything on a plug is simpler. Unplug it and it's ready. Dishwashers sit in between — plumbed and often hard-wired, so check before assuming.
Before it moves: empty and defrost
Small, universally skipped, and the cause of most avoidable mess on this kind of job.
Empty it completely and defrost it, ideally a day ahead — door propped open, towel underneath. A fridge or freezer that hasn't been defrosted leaks the whole way out, across your floor and down your hallway.
Remove or secure glass shelving. Loose glass inside a moving appliance is the single most common way one of these jobs causes damage.
And check behind it. Things fall behind appliances and stay there for years — this is one of the few genuinely reliable places to find something you'd forgotten about.
Stacked units are their own item
A pricing detail worth stating precisely, because it's easy to misread.
A stacked washer-dryer unit is $189 — a single appliance, priced as one thing.
A separate washer and dryer are $133 and $128, which is $351 together.
Those are two different physical situations, not two ways of pricing the same one. A stacked unit isn't a discount you can ask for if you own a matched pair sitting side by side — it's a different machine. We're spelling that out because the numbers look like a saving and they aren't. Washer and dryer removal.
The value cliff
The thing that costs people most, and it's a timing problem rather than a pricing one.
A working appliance is an asset. The same appliance, three months later and dead, is a bill. Not a smaller asset — the sign flips. One has buyers, a haul-away option and resale value; the other has a removal charge and a recovery requirement.
Which means the moment an old machine starts being described as "on its last legs" is the moment it's worth the most it will ever be worth again. Replacing it deliberately, while it still runs, captures that — the retailer takes the old one on delivery, or somebody buys it, and you never pay a removal charge at all.
Replacing it reactively, after it fails, captures none of it. Now you're arranging a removal under time pressure, with a fridge full of food, and paying for the privilege.
We're not suggesting anyone replace a working appliance early for our benefit — that would cost far more than it saves. The point is narrower: if you already know a machine is on the way out, the disposal decision is worth making while it still works.
The garage second fridge
A recurring job in this city, and one worth naming because it sits in a blind spot.
Plenty of households here run a second refrigerator or a chest freezer in the garage — the newer developments out toward Wolf Ranch, Banning Lewis Ranch and Falcon have the space for it, and it's genuinely useful.
The blind spot is what happens when it stops being used. It doesn't get dealt with, because it isn't in the way. It sits there for years — often still plugged in and still drawing power — until a garage clear-out finally surfaces it.
By then it's a dead refrigerant unit, which is the most expensive category on this page: chest freezer $146, upright $149, second fridge $164. Whereas the same appliance, unplugged and offered while it still ran, was something somebody wanted. Garage clears.
What it costs
| Appliance | Flat price |
|---|---|
| Minimum | $75 |
| Refrigerator — standard / large | $164 / $183 |
| Mini fridge | $115 |
| Freezer — chest / upright | $146 / $149 |
| Washer / dryer | $133 / $128 |
| Stacked washer-dryer unit | $189 |
| Dishwasher | $109 |
| Range — electric / gas | $134 / $137 |
| Water heater — tank / tankless | $131 / $90 |
| Air conditioner — window small / large / portable | $87 / $109 / $85 |
| Dehumidifier | $77 |
| Microwave — countertop / built-in | $30 / $54 |
| Range hood / trash compactor / garbage disposal | $71 / $61 / $63 |
| Stairs, long carry, no lift | No charge |
No sales tax on the service in Colorado. Below a certain value our $75 minimum makes us poor value — a countertop microwave at $30 is a good example of something better handled another way. Full price list · appliance removal.
A kitchen remodel is a volume job
Worth flagging because the arithmetic changes when appliances come out together.
A full kitchen — refrigerator, range, dishwasher, microwave and hood — is $164 + $172 + $109 + $73 + $71 = $589 itemised. By volume that's around a five-eighths truck at $513, so on this shape itemised just edges it, and that's what we'd quote.
Add cabinetry or countertops and it flips decisively to volume, because construction debris is bulky and hard to itemise. Remodel and construction cleanup · how both methods compare across seven job shapes.
Cheat sheet by appliance
Working fridge
Sell or give away before disconnecting. Real demand here.
Dead fridge
Refrigerant recovery required. $164, or ask a scrap collector who handles them.
Working washer or dryer
Genuinely wanted. Demonstrate it works while it's still plumbed in.
Dead washer or dryer
Mostly steel — try scrap free first. Otherwise $133 / $128.
Stacked laundry unit
$189 as one item. Not a discount on a pair.
Gas range
Licensed disconnection first. Then $131.
Electric range
Unplug and it's ready. $128.
Water heater
Plumber disconnects and drains. Tank $131.
Dishwasher
Check if plumbed or hard-wired. $109.
Window or portable AC
Refrigerant — not kerbside. $87–$109 or $114.
Dehumidifier
Also refrigerant. $77.
Countertop microwave
$30 — below our minimum's value. Use a free route.
A whole kitchen
Price both ways. Around $684 itemised for five units.
Several dead appliances at once
Call a scrap collector first. Quantity makes the trip worth their while.
The golden rule
Find out if it works before you unplug it, and find out if it's metal before you pay for it. Those two checks handle almost every appliance decision in this city. A machine that still runs has buyers, and this is a market with constant demand for functional second-hand appliances — but its value evaporates the moment it's a disconnected box in a garage that nobody can test. And a machine that's finished is still a large piece of clean steel that a scrap collector may take for nothing, provided it isn't one of the refrigerant units that needs qualified recovery first. Between those two facts sits most of what people pay us for unnecessarily. Ask the retailer at checkout, ask a collector before you book, and call us for what's genuinely left.
Serving Colorado Springs & El Paso County
Frequently asked questions
What does appliance removal cost in Colorado Springs?
A standard refrigerator is $164 and a side-by-side or French door is $183. A washer is $133, a dryer $128, and a stacked washer-dryer unit $189. A dishwasher is $109, an electric range $128 and a gas range $137. Smaller units are cheaper — a microwave is $30, a dehumidifier $77 and a window air conditioner $87 or $109 depending on size. The minimum is $75, and there is no sales tax on the service in Colorado.
Does it matter whether the appliance still works?
It is the only question that really matters. A working machine has genuine value — people buy used appliances, some organisations accept them, and a retailer will often take one away when delivering a replacement. A dead one has none of those routes, but it is still a large piece of clean metal, which means a scrap collector may want it for nothing. Establish which you have before deciding anything else, because the two situations have almost no overlap.
Why do fridges and freezers cost more to remove?
Because refrigerant has to be recovered by someone qualified to do it before the unit can be processed, and that is a real step with a real cost attached. It applies to refrigerators, freezers, window and portable air conditioners, and dehumidifiers. It is not something to attempt yourself, and it is the reason those units cannot simply be left at a kerb or dropped at a general facility.
Do I need to disconnect it before you arrive?
For anything plugged into a socket, unplugging it is enough. Anything connected to a gas line or plumbed into a water supply is different — gas appliances and water heaters should be disconnected by a licensed plumber or technician before removal, and we will not disconnect them ourselves. That is not us being awkward; it is work that requires the right licence and the right tools, and getting it wrong is dangerous.
What should I do with a fridge before it goes?
Empty it completely and defrost it, ideally a day ahead with the door propped open and a towel underneath. A fridge that has not been defrosted will leak on the way out, which is unpleasant for your floor and your hallway. Remove or secure any glass shelving too, since loose glass in a moving appliance is the most common way one of these jobs causes damage.
Can I get a fridge taken away for free?
Sometimes. If you are buying a replacement, ask the retailer about haul-away at the point of purchase — it is frequently the best option available and cannot usually be added later. If the unit works, someone may well take it. And a scrap collector may take a dead one at no cost because the metal is worth their trip. Try those before paying anyone, including us.
